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Short Update
Summer coming up I thought it is the time for camping and two compilations of cooking on which fire and which pot to take along are out. And trust me, there are a lot of options to choose from. The longer you are having a home, the more stuff you can buy whereas being away years on end, there’s only what you took or bought along the way. I think I have all possible solutions by now.
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House-sitting II
In hindsight, I only needed to be with cats and dogs. So when Jacqueline, who wanted to reassure our home-sit, informed us: ‘Our Keesje Jack Russell got unexpectedly 7 puppies, would you still want to come?’, my ‘yes’ could not have been bigger! To be in someone else’s house is not immediately a wish of mine, but for these dogs and cats! Read more…
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Review Durston XMID 1
Not a review about the good sides of this tent, there is enough on YouTube for that.
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Hiking Matera
I am dropped off at the highest point of a low hill and walk towards where I hope to find a camp spot. It is dark when a Jeep comes my way: ‘Where are you going?’ I answer the man I am walking to Matera. He tells me this is not the route to Matera and I better return to the road. I tell him this is exactly the route to Matera. He asks whether I am on bicycle and when he sees I am not, he tells me it is okay. Seeing no logic in this I nevertheless answer ‘grazie‘. It is a track consisting of rough gravel and later on becoming karst landscape. Doable by bicycle, foot, with a walking trailer, and by car.
Not always, but often I like my camp experience to last until late morning. Having a small fire and preparing tea while simply resting and embroidering, is pure enjoyment for me. Nowadays I have a few options to choose which stove to take along. A journey with kickbike, bicycle or hiking trailer asks for a different stove, when the weather permits. And the option I like a lot is the Bushbox XXL.
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Madonie Regional Nature Park
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from House-Sitting to Sicily
We leave the bubble of our Hungarian home. We made an account on TrustedHousesitters, committed to 4 homes, and are off to our first in Pescara. Our plan is to care for other people’s pets while we live in the home of the owners. House-sitting enables you to see the country from another perspective and have the heart-warming interactions with pets.
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Parco dell’Etna
Making plans is not my strongest asset but for a short hike near the Etna all I know is that I don’t need to go to the top. Elevation stays roughly between 1400 and 2000 meter and the loop is about 37 kilometer in total. Wild camping is not really allowed but also not really forbidden. The beauty coming my way is of another planet altogether. A world I love: barren and lush at the same time.
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Maiella National Park
Rules and regulations. Do we agree with them because we have to or do we only keep the ones that fit us. Some rules come naturally to most of us while others seem to especially restrict. In a city, or anywhere people live close, rules are a must. But when city people would feel restricted, how will they free themselves from it? Or will restricted feelings turn into a new normal?
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Tabernas to Órgiva
‘Are you camping?’ asks a slightly older man who sit in the front passengers seat of an overland vehicle, cranking his body forward, shining with anticipation. ‘Yes, I am,’ is my reply and the man, who has hired a female tour guide with jeep to drive through the canyons of Tabernas is beaming, as if he much rather want to camp too, instead sits in a car. ‘Oh, that is fantastic’, he bounces back. ´It is!´ I reply in a high pitched voice. The driver guide isn’t upbeat with my answer and has a look on her face as if she just swallowed a green plum. Camping is not allowed, really, and earlier she’d threatened Alex (the homeless camper I bumped into when stealth camping) with police because he was openly making a camp fire to cook.
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The only true desert in Europe: Tabernas
Reaching Abla from an unintended and quite uninteresting angle might not have been so stunning, yet I find all the groceries that I wanted in the only shop open on a Sunday morning. Very satisfied pulling the trailer stuffed to its maximum capacity I enter a café to eat scrambled eggs and coffee, the two things I can’t prepare myself.
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Paratha
Baking of a few tiny paratha
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Andalucia: Orgiva to Abla
Walking (for some time) is liberating in many ways. There’s a sudden very clear goal. It is a goal made by myself and even though it is deceptive one, it brings me incredible much joy. I have plenty of challenge and every second is new to my mind. I don’t know where I will sleep the night and to not know is pleasant. Worries arises in thin air because walls that bounces thoughts back and forth are not any longer there. Hot flashes are gone and excess energy get used up. I lack no social interaction and the balance between alone and adventurous input is just perfect. I have a loving partner to whom I can share my experiences, for social media I need not to switch on the roaming data. My social media are the people I talk to and Geo who is together with cat V.
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Walking Andalusia
Something hits me like a comet, a tingling uplifting feeling that a young Italian psychologist delivers, just arrived from her travel to Thailand, she’s now trying to help me.
How can I be better emerged into a mountainous landscape when I am dropped right next to it and I simply cycle back home. The best of both worlds, so off to pack these old panniers (post 1).
A huge cross marks the end of the climb, a lone shepherd waves me ‘dobar dan’. As always I am hugely curious what comes on the other side. And what comes takes me by surprise: a seemingly flat landscape that stretches far, edged with peaks and a single road in an almost straight line passing through. There’s hardly any traffic and the prospect of being on a plateau high up after climbing makes me jumpy and excited.
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I will cycle back home
Can the mind be mended to do a steep climb even though it haven’t climbed in years? It is just a matter of eating well, having slept nicely and wanting to do that climb. A few months ago I went along the same climb up to 1100 meter, on foot with a trailer. I want to reach that immense beautiful field of openness again, now with a bicycle. I am sure I can do it.
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Double Rooted
The blog is full and I need to divert you to my creative blog for the new write up. It is mainly because I keep photographing the beauty I am surrounded by that I want to give these images a place. Next post is about some good old-fashioned cycling (yes, on a bicycle) while this is about home. Skip it if you’re not into plants, green and beauty. So, here’s to read and see the new post…
Comfort’s Concession
The tapestry of being self sufficient becomes complex. There, lilac flowers hanging to dry turning deeper purple against the wooden structure that once held corn to dry, I notice a beauty I would have admired while travelling past: now it’s where I am.
Seeing, sitting from an old barn, birds accidentally flying in while buzzing overhead from insects nestling in the wooden ceiling, I know there’s no turning back into a style that I once, and still, longed for.
‘Bom caminho’ I hear loud and clear. The voice is so near to me that wind is not needed to carry the voice to my ears. I am walking on a stretch with some pilgrims behind me and I am happily surprised to be greeted with this standard line. Then I see the plump man who a day earlier was engrossed on his phone while I slung ‘bom caminho’ at him. I realize he does this to make fun of me. Sure enough he talks to me, asking whether the trailer is easier on a downhill or uphill. ‘None of them’, I reply ‘especially not now I have a shin splint.’ For some time we walk together, reluctantly, and we do talk a tiny bit. He’s American and I imagine him a leader in some business: a moody executive who uses few words, instead staring at a screen of either a phone or a notebook to plan the walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostella. A route that needs precious little planning. We walk a same pace, in the rain and I can’t help mentioning the rain. He, walking briskly from one dry hostel to the next dry hostel, covered in rain gear, appearing one black cone of melted plastic, answers: ‘All in all, it’s not that bad with the rain.’
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Snowpeak tea kettle No. 1
This Snowpeak pot is a stainless steel tea kettle and was bought for the sole purpose of having it a spout. Using the plain rimmed MSR Alpine StowAway pot to pour chai was always a mess, with quite some amount of chai lost.
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One pot soup meal
It took me a long time to come up with a decent meal cooked in camp. Having eaten pasta with sugared tomato paste for over a year I knew that should not have to be repeated ever again but how do you cook a tasty meal when you are not a cook and one that is also low on gas and water consumption?
I develop pinpricks in the Achilles heel and neck. Impetigo starts, a highly contagious skin infection, spreading on my hand. But most disturbing is the pain in my shin. Geo and I walk apart and have about 25 kilometer between us at the end of a day. Being a bit before Porto I feel I need a break. That means Geo has to bring himself to a halt too.
We meet in an elderly home run by Christian church that doubles as a hospital and kindergarten where also a dormitory for pilgrims is. But we can stay only one night. Geo books us a room in a private home a bit off the route for the next days and to get there is another walk through uninspiring towns. One neighborhood after the other like clay balls strung on a thread.
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One Pot Meal
Break-fast
It took me quite some figuring out how to beat the constipation of camping food after I started wholesome healthy home grown food diet.
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Fátima to Coimbra
Long ago I was a few days in Portugal. And here I am again, much longer. And I am in a crowd of Africans, dressed in down jackets, some with slippers, some even rather fat and some also, indeed, skinny. ‘They are from Gambia, Senegal and Ghana,’ says the young Algerian doctor who left his country because of the problems he had with his boss, ‘they are from very poor countries’, he adds. He himself came by airplane and wants to become rich.
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Caminho Portuguese Lisbon to Fátima
Arriving in darkness Portugal from above looks like it is filled with thick curls that glow in the dark. It are the streets, the countless lanes on hills and between that connect without much interruption. It is here we will start our 6 week walk and I wonder where I will pitch my tent in between these soft glowing lighted hills?
Every burst of sunlight is an immediate thrust of a lance, straight through my brain and heart and the only decision on such winter days are which way I go. Left or right? It isn’t that difficult, yet with the knowledge that neither left nor right is anything to see, I have to be positive and find something to go to. The cabinet of my brain is filled with connections to forgotten tombs and chapels. I can braid together the multiple forests paths to a maze of sense. Read more
Previous part of this post: It is SAD I
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The ascetic isolated summer retreat club
I don’t know where to begin. With what I learned perhaps? But is that interesting or even feasible in my attempt to inspire you? Or shall I simply write a bit about what life means in the countryside of Hungary? Read more…
Pag stood out in my mind as stark beauty. I remember that when I was there it reminded me of the Pakistan desert. Geo brings me 70 kilometer from where the ferry will erupt me on its bleak bare flanks while he himself drives on for 300 more kilometers. Not exactly ‘exploring in each others vicinity’ but I desperately want to be on Pag while Geo does not. The island with no trees I so much look forward to. The island existing of fences. Two things my mind mixed up and made its own Pag in my recollection. A week later, when Geo picks me up and we drive away from the peninsula in to the hills I meet with surroundings I much rather had wanted to be in.
Two reactions were of happily surprise: the first that I got to know a Hungarian footbiker, the second that we would meet with our footbikes. Szandra, you are a tourguide in Budapest and there are many ways to choose how to guide people through Budapest. The city is big and walking will take long. An open bus is another way. Or a boat. Maybe even these stand up electric mobility scooters. Fatbike electric rollers. You name it, it is all out there.
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Bosnia
Since my late 30’s I started to desire my own home but it was a mild desire. Traveling always had the priority, until I reached the 45 and it became obvious I spend more time in camp spots than on the bicycle. Now that Geo and I have an own home, including 4 cats (accidently 3 too many) I find it remarkable that the pull to get back home and water-bath my tomatoes is rather strong.
Is the limit based on being-away time before this homely pull kicks in, or is it the destination that we set which has been reached?
It is not about a journey but the effects of one.
To continue with where I left in part I, about disturbing factors, it perhaps comes down to what is written a bit further down. On one of my long travels through India I wanted to form a more sturdy opinion about ashrams than what I’d red in books. Though two books in particular that I red in ashrams were eye opening (and my opinion about ashrams? That I keep for another time).
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The necessary solitude we grow from
Two posts about being different and how that is not at all an issue. Until you realize you’re misunderstood by the different standard of living compared to others. Two write-ups to make you aware of the possible outcome of traveling long time solo. And also a little bit about to go your own way, to depend on your own gut feeling.
August 2023. The inheritance of solitude. A write-up about the awareness of the possible outcome of traveling long time solo. And also a little bit about to go your own way, to depend on your own gut feeling
August 2023. ‘The cat woman with a sharp nose’. Fueled when I felt misunderstood by the different standard of how I prefer living. It reminded me of (not so pleasant) woman I met in Yemen, but whom I understand better nowadays.
Five weeks off-grid, buried in the Florida woods
August 2020, USA. A most odd experience in the woods of Florida. I never knew how spectacular a seemingly boring patch of woods could be. In times of Corona we were homeless, hiding and alert. View post…
The uninvited twists of the mind: broken boredom
September 2018, Uruguay. Aloneness, solitude, quietude is one thing. But too much of it is not doing good either. To my rescue comes a beautiful hearted woman who takes me in her home for some time. Just what I needed. View post…
This was formerly another post, hence the comments do not fit.
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Forest Clarification
Compelled to share my ideas of the forest as I have never been so much in them. Not my favorite kind of landscape, by far not as there is really not much to see when it comes to sweeping distances. Unending waves of land like a desert are none. Yet, there is this strong pull to be in the forest.
I felt the desire to write a little bit, but the tiredness from another sweaty shallow menopausal night kept me from finding a short, to the point topic. But luckily, not having a paid job, I decide to take it easy today and answer someone’s personal message which offered me an interesting topic. Read more
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Kicbike listens to calling hills… Prt. II
This post starts with part I
Like all seasoned cyclists, nervous about setting up my tent somewhere is not an issue anymore. We have done this so often that I look at every spot in nature as a potential place to camp, even when I do not need to camp.
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Kickbike listens to calling hills… Prt. I
Days roll into weeks and being absorbed into our own little bulb where silence, peace and no-nonsense makes for a supporting base to create, grow and admire, I find it difficult to leave. Yet I know that out in nature all that I don’t have in my own quiet green cocoon is present. I call it the magic of plant life; a strange realization for the traveler I was.
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Winter Reset
I know most people who read this are not interested in vegetables, and the thing is, I wasn’t so much either a couple of years ago. Same when I met a Dutch cyclist in Pakistan, I was not interested the slightest bit (a few years prior that I cycled 50.000 kilometres). May I try to inspire you once more, and promised, the next time with a touring story.