Short Update

Being in India about a month now I can say I like it. It is a huge difference with where ever you come from, a fact I know too well. Nevertheless it took me 3 weeks to get accustomed to the traffic, the never ending attention, the heat and the effort to get just anything done. Cycling, again, is an absolute different approach to India.

Famous for a few minutes

I now enjoy the funny little ways of people in the back of a riksja, the men yelling along the road, the bright smiles flashed from shiny women faces and the bewildered looks I receive ever so often. It is a most challenging way of traveling, cycling in India.

And so it happens I am asked by a curly bearded Muslim riksja wallah after my route. Funny he advises me to go to the original Sai Baba, while he translates for yet another journalist. Krishna from Sakshi, an Andhra Pradesh news paper.

This is where it’s about: without the language and food barrier, I am roaming around the world to understand the lifestyle and culture of people and lot’s of cycle followers locally guarding throughout my journey in South India: I am researching the civilization.

Quite funny as these answers were never coming from questions generating such…

As for now, I am enjoying the luxury of a touristic hotspot, Virupapura Gaddi, across the river of Hampi. That means the much needed quietness and being able to sit alone along the rice fields. The only thing lacking is good Indian food, but I can live with that for now.

By Cindy

Years of traveling brought me many different insights, philosophies and countries I needed to be (over 90 in total). I lived in Pakistan, went over 15 times to India and when I stopped cycling the world, that was after 50.000 kilometer through 45 countries, I met Geo. Together we now try to be more self-sustainable, grow our own food and live off-grid. I now juggle with the logistics of being an old-fashioned housewife, cook and creative artist loving the outdoors. The pouches I create are for sale on

13 replies on “Short Update”

rice dahl and chapati, dosa and idlis, well, once you will reach Rishikesh go to the children home, and you will get the most beautiful food I have ever had in India.. wish I met you on your bke, but I m back to France… Enjoy India, incredible India, dear Cindy !


I’m not going to Rishikesh sweet Christine, I have been there and although I know I would love it and could easily spend another 6 weeks there, yoga and meditation and just being relaxed, I focus on cycling. The best food is outside the touristic centre’s, best food is a long the road. Cheap and best!

I am going to Indore as end station before cycling again in the Himalaya together with Henrik (fid I tell you about him? I met him in Iran.)

Perhaps we can meet someday. You are a special woman!


Hey Cindy

Just found this through ur question on LP thorn tree. India to Myanmar
Good luck but think it may not work.

We’ll be landing this week and heading to the north via Srinigar. Up to Leh and then Spiti.

Ur right when you say the best food are the small stalls.
We love the place.


Of course with the bikes. There is no other way.
Presently in Warsaw and flying to Delhi then bus to Chandigarh.
Cycle to Srinigar via the Sachs pass.
We too are looking at Kargil to Padum but don’t like the one way in, one way out. There is a long trek out from Padum but we have to be in Leh to meet a friend.
Have cycled Leh to Delhi once before via Spiti valley, and its worth doing again.
May see you on the road.
Fred & Wendy


Hi Fred,

I have been often to Srinagar and don’t really like it (personal issues). The road Kargil Padum as you say, and if I can remember correctly, has one day one way traffic up and the other day one way traffic down. Is that what you say? Why don’t you like that?

Spiti valley I haven’t been but I look so much forward to the master peaks of the Himalaya that I aim for Padum : )

Oh… avoid Manali now. It’s has become so crowded I heared, you hardly can move!

I have been to Padum and LOVED it so would like to go there again and by bicycle now. I know you can trek to Leh from Padum, is that what you mean too?


Some have trekked with their bikes form Padum over towards Leh but we’d miss some of the road.
We usually like lop roads that have different scenery on the way out. Dead end roads means we have to cycle back the same way.
Never been to Manali and never will, too many tourists. Spiti is very nice.


Manali has it charm, at least 6 years ago. Good as a place to rest. By the way, cycling the same road back is never the same!

Good to hear you enjoyed Spiti too : )

Thanks! Soon gonna see our route. We have no clue yet. Neither me, where I can go cycling after India?????????


We only stay till Sept 5th then fly back to Australia and cycle Perth to home near Albany, via the MUnda Biddi trail.

Hope to see you on the road. May go to Padum after all.
We have 5 weeks to get from Chandigarh to leg.


Fred, can you tell me something about cycling in Australia? We will cycle 7 weeks together and then I am on my own again. I have no clue yet where to go?
How do you look, in case we run into you, I already know who is Fred! I have short hair and a blue bicycle ; )


Hi Fred,

I think I have seen you on the airport. On Thursday. You and your wife and a red Ortlieb. Is that correct???? I was a day too early to pick up my partner and was in distress!!!

But Henrik, my partner have arrived and we are making plans to go up north via Shimla, Manali to Leh. Do you know if we still need permits to these area’s. I know a few years it was necessary but now I’m not sure anymore. But if we need them I guess we can get them in Shimla, wouldn’t it?

Well, any info is much appreciated and I hope you are enjoying India together!

Greetings Cindy and Henrik


Don't just stop here, I appreciate your thoughts too : )

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